by PREPARE | Apr 5, 2025 | Blog, Guest Bloggers
In a preparedness lifestyle, preparing beyond your storage food is essential.
With today’s economy and food borne illnesses a very real possibility, many people are wisely turning to backyard gardening to help with their food supply. For some families it has become a necessity, while for others it is basically a productive hobby. From an economics standpoint, not to mention health perspective, raising your own vegetables just makes excellent sense even at a very small level.
Of course, everyone has a different level of understanding and experience when it comes to growing food. Some people give-up any thoughts of planting crops because they immediately picture a task that is overwhelming and beyond their resources.
The truth is, you do not need acres of land or tons of garden soil to get started. In fact, if planned properly the time and effort required to grow vegetables to feed your family is fairly minimal. For people who are making preparations for potential difficulties ahead, the benefit is certainly worthy of the time investment.
Another key point that needs to be emphasized is the nutritional consumption element. Ready meals that are typically used as emergency food storage, typically do not have the nutritional value that our bodies need to function properly. They are okay for a short-term food supply, but are probably not the best solution for lengthy consumption. Many of the “ready meals” are high in salt and other preservatives that help with the storage, but give no benefit to our bodies health. In reality, our bodies are not getting the live nutrients that we need to stay healthy. Growing live vegetables will help give us nutrients that are required for us to function at peak performance.
With that said, let’s discuss some growing solutions to supplement your food supply!
It is that time of year again, seedlings are being displayed and pallets of potting mix are everywhere you turn when visiting your local home and garden store. So how do you get started? What vegetables grow best and where, and what skills do you need? Virtually any type of vegetable can be grown anywhere and if you can handle a trowel, you have the skills needed. Let nature do all the heavy lifting.
Below is a list of vegetables that can be grown on a patio, in a backward planter, a cultivated section of the backyard, or even grown in random pots.
- Tomatoes Can Be Grown In Pots Or Sow Directly In Well Cultivated Soil
- Bell Peppers
- Herbs Such As Parsley Chives Dill Tarragon And many Others In Planter Boxes Pots Or Sown Directly Into The Garden Plot
- Hot Peppers Of All Types To Include Jalapenos And Cayenne
The list is by no means comprehensive. Use your imagination and you can grow anything practically anywhere. What do you need to get started? First, you need a sunny location. Vegetables, unlike certain flowers thrive in full sunlight; in fact, they need at least six to eight hours of direct sun daily.
Tomato plants in particular suffer low yields and the plants become “leggy” if they do not get enough sun. What happens is the plant in its effort to reach sunlight will grow long stems void of foliage. The plant will grow tall but will have a very limited yield. The plants are weaker and will be more susceptible to pests and disease. Tomatoes need at least six hours of sunlight daily. The plants also need up to two inches of water weekly.
Tomato plants are self-pollinating (do not need bees for pollination) so they are very popular for patios and even sun-rooms. The plant produces both the male and female blossoms. If the plants are grown in an enclosed area, you will need to shake the plants gently once the plant shows blossoms. Shaking allows the pollen to fall from one blossom to another. If planted outside nature handles this by providing a breeze from time to time. Cucumbers squash, and various other plants will need active bees to ensure pollination.
Tomatoes and cucumbers need warm soil and balmy nights. It is not advisable to transplant until the average nighttime temperature is above 50 degrees Fahrenheit or 10 degrees Celsius. Tomato plants if started indoors will need to be slowly introduced to the outdoors. Place the plants outdoors for a few hours daily, until ready to plant in the ground. This hardens the plants by exposing them to varying temperatures and breezes. The tomato plant senses the change. Soon it will begin to grow thicker stems to store and transport water and to support the plant. Plants that are not hardened have less of a chance of surviving.
When transplanting, bury as much of the plant as you can. Some experts say 80 percent of the plant should be buried. This ensures strong stems and heavy foliage. To produce larger tomatoes, some gardeners prune their plants. This allows the plant to direct more nutrients and water into each fruit. This reduces the yield but produces larger tomatoes.
To grow organically you should have a compost pile. Compost is simply the decomposition process of organic material. Household scraps such as overripe fruit, potato peels and so forth. However, do not compost animal waste, bones or meat. You can compost grass clippings, yard waste and so on.
The compost is a fertilizer. Mix it with top soil, peat moss or potting soil. You can also mulch with it around the base of the plants to inhibit weed growth and to retain moisture. Herbs such as dill, garlic and even green onions act as a natural pest repellent. You can plant these herbs in any garden area to ward off plant eating pests.
Do not let any vegetables languish on the vine so to speak. Tomatoes can be picked early and they will ripen after picking. Pick cucumbers before they become too large, because they will produce more seeds and become tough when allowed to get to big. Moreover, harvesting regularly will increase the overall yield.
By: Pierce Jacobson
Pierce Jacobson is a family man who enjoys homesteading, writing, and researching food growing models. He has been studying self-reliance and preparedness systems for many years, and believes that we are heading toward difficulties that will require us to be less-dependent on the existing infrastructures. He practices and teaches his own survival skills and growing models, to help better-prepare for the days ahead.
Popular Questions
Why is preparing beyond just storing food important for my family's health?
Preparing beyond just storing food is crucial because many ready-made meals lack the nutritional value our bodies need for optimal health. These meals often contain high levels of salt and preservatives, which are not beneficial for long-term consumption. By growing your own vegetables, you can ensure a fresh supply of nutrients that support your family's well-being and overall health.
What are some easy vegetables to grow for those preparing beyond their food storage?
For those looking to supplement their food storage, starting with easy-to-grow vegetables like tomatoes, bell peppers, and various herbs is a great choice. These can be grown in pots or small garden spaces, making them accessible for anyone, regardless of their gardening experience. With just a sunny spot and some basic care, you can enjoy fresh produce right from your home.
How can I start preparing beyond my food storage if I have limited space?
If you have limited space, you can still prepare beyond your food storage by utilizing containers or vertical gardening techniques. Many vegetables, such as herbs and tomatoes, thrive in pots and can be grown on patios or balconies. Start small, and gradually expand your garden as you gain confidence and experience in growing your own food.
What skills do I need to grow my own food beyond just storing it?
You don't need extensive gardening skills to grow your own food; basic knowledge of plant care is sufficient. Understanding sunlight requirements, watering needs, and how to harvest your crops will go a long way. With a little research and practice, anyone can learn to grow vegetables and herbs that will enhance their food supply.
How does growing my own food contribute to my preparedness plan?
Growing your own food significantly enhances your preparedness plan by providing a sustainable source of fresh produce. This practice not only reduces reliance on store-bought items but also ensures that you have access to nutritious food during emergencies. Additionally, cultivating your own garden can be a rewarding hobby that contributes to your family's self-sufficiency and resilience.
by PREPARE | Apr 5, 2025 | Blog, Guest Bloggers
The Sacred Giant Bear and the Mosquitoes
An Apache tribe had the last of the great giant bears living near their summer camp. The giant bear lived in the cliffs near their village. The Apaches all had a high level of respect for this sacred giant bear. They would give it plenty of privacy and would thank The Creator for blessing their tribe with the giant bear’s spirit. One day a rebellious Apache boy was out hunting and spotted a rabbit in the berry bushes. He pulled his arrow back and aimed, but at that moment, the rabbit ran away. The rabbit was running because the sacred giant bear came by to eat the berries. The boy decided to just shoot one arrow at the great bear, and thought it would just bounce off its thick fur. Just as the boy released the arrow, the giant bear stood up to face the boy and the arrow went straight into the bear’s heart. The giant bear slumped to the ground and died. Great fear came over the boy and he dropped his bow and ran back to the village.
The next day, the other Apache hunters came to the same location and saw the sacred giant bear motionless. They spotted the bow nearby and knew the owner was the rebellious boy. For respect, the warriors prayed for forgiveness and left the bear where it laid. The boy was whipped by the village for his crime and selfish ways. The boy was never allowed in the warrior class society the rest of his days.
The next season when summer came the Apaches were out hunting again and they came across the location where the giant bear had died. They saw his black silhouette, but as they drew near, the silhouette was merely a swarm of millions of mosquitoes in the shape of the great bear. Next the swarm of mosquitoes flew towards the Apaches. As the Apache ran back to the village, the mosquitoes followed and continued to bite into the Apaches’ skin. The Apaches knew it was the curse of the sacred bear. The sacred bear had turned into mosquitoes. The mosquitoes sucked the blood from the Apaches to take back the blood they took from the sacred bear. The Apaches accepted this fate, and to this day, some Apaches do not smack mosquitoes when they attack.
The battle application attributed to this story is called the Mosquitoes tactic. The Apache warriors would take a knife or other weapons and strike quickly at the opponent, when the opponent would attempt to defend, the Apache warrior would draw back and quickly strike at another location on the opponent. This action emulates the mosquitoes; for as you try to swat mosquitoes, they simply fly away and attack you on a different part of the body. Mosquitoes leave multiple bite marks, as do the Apache warrior.
By Snake Blocker, Lipan Apache Tribe of Texas
Snake Blocker is a member of the Lipan Apache Tribe of Texas, is an accomplished martial artists and Apache Historian. He has served in the U.S. Navy since June 2001 and did tours in Kuwait, Iraq and Afghanistan. He is the featured instructor in several videos and promotes his signature line of survival products and knives. Snake has been featured on Deadliest Warrior “Apaches versus Gladiators” and Doomsday Preppers “In the Hurt Locker”. He hosts “Snake Blocker Survival” on Preparedness Radio Network.
by PREPARE | Apr 5, 2025 | Blog, Guest Bloggers
This is the perfect time of year to share information on Composting For the Home Gardener
Let me begin by saying that, I do not generally recommend composting because of the equipment, time, space, and effort required, and because few people have the time, knowledge, or inclination to really do it right. In addition, even the best compost is a great unknown, so far as what actual nutrition it provides. And no one can tell you either, because every batch is different!
Rather than composting, I recommend putting grass clippings, clean and disease-free plant parts, etc. into the ground immediately, so that mixed with the soil they can compost naturally and there will be no flies, rodents, smells, etc. To read about my experience in composting, see the Zoo-Doo Man article, which I will discuss later in this article. And to feed your plants exactly what they need without the investment, time, and hassle of composting pay attention to the final 3 paragraphs of the article for what WE do!
If you still want to compost, we will now describe what it takes to compost correctly.
There are two types of composting: aerobic (with oxygen) and anaerobic (without oxygen). Compost includes 4 basic elements including air, water, carbon, and nitrogen.
For Aerobic composting, a carbon-to-nitrogen ratio close to 30 is ideal. Moisture content is generally best between 50 and 60%. The material must not become soggy or compacted, but must be moist. A thermometer measuring 100 to 200 degrees, with a long probe, is essential.
Anaerobic composting is a cold process; it can take as long as two years to produce usable compost, and DOES NOT remove soil pathogens, bugs, and weed seeds. This method is NOT recommended for the family garden for the reasons stated above, plus the fact that it creates an unsightly, smelly mess in your yard that attracts rodents, etc. and often occupies usable space that could otherwise be growing plants.
Regrettably, anaerobic composting is what 99% of family gardeners usually end up with, because of lack of education and/or consistent effort.
Aerobic composting must sustain temperatures of at least 140 degrees Fahrenheit (150 is better) for three weeks, which kills most soil pathogens, bugs, and weed seeds. It requires a constant supply of air throughout the pile in order to provide oxygen to the microbes that digest the raw materials and thus decompose them into usable compost.
Foul odors are from anaerobic activity and indicate a lack of oxygen. Increase turning frequency and/or fibrous content of the mix to reduce the moisture content and increase oxygen.
The pile should be thoroughly turned daily, and if all other elements are present in the right proportions good compost can be created in as little as one month.
Water, as mentioned above, is also necessary, but not too much at one time. The pile should be moist – like a wrung-out sponge – but not wet.
Carbon is used as the energy source, and most of the pile should consist of material high in carbon. Common high-carbon ingredients include dry leaves, straw, and corn stalks. High-carbon ingredients will contain more than 30 times as much carbon as nitrogen – sometimes MUCH more – and are often called “browns”.
Nitrogen is needed for the proteins that build the microbes bodies. Ingredients with the most nitrogen are usually green, moist plant matter such as leaves, or an animal by-product like manure. Nitrogen-rich materials – often called “greens” – usually will contain carbon and nitrogen in a ratio close to 20:1.
NEVER use manure from carnivores, and even cow manure sometimes contains e-coli, which can cause sickness and even death. Therefore, any manure should be used with caution.
For efficient decomposition you need a carbon/nitrogen (C/N) ratio of no more than 30:1. If you have too much nitrogen your pile will smell because the excess nitrogen converts into an ammonia gas. If there’s too little nitrogen you will not sustain the necessary heat, plus the pile will break down very slowly.
Green, fresh materials have a much higher nitrogen content than dry materials. Fresh grass clippings are ideal for composting, having a carbon to nitrogen (C/N) ratio of 19:1. Food scraps vary, but can be as low as 15:1. So, mixing grass clippings and old leaves, in the ratio of one part clippings and two parts old leaves, will generally give you a good C/N ratio.
Experiment with the materials that are available to you, and remember that success can be fleeting – with constant adjustments being necessary to maintain the ideal conditions. If temperatures are below the target range and the mix is loose and friable, add high-nitrogen materials and/or water until the temperature rises. Remember, too dry is as bad as too wet.
Some additional common materials with their carbon/nitrogen ratios, which I have copied from an article in the Urban Garden Center source are:
Leaves – 35:1 – – 85:1, Peat moss – 58:1, Corn stalks – 60:1, Straw – 80:1, Pine needles 60:1 – – 110:1, Farm manure – 90:1, Sawdust – 130:1 – – 490:1, Newspaper – 170:1.
Unless it’s contained in a Compost Tumbler or other container in which it can be turned easily while retaining the heat, you should start with a compost pile of at least 1 cubic yard, in order to have sufficient material to retain the necessary 140 degree heat for 3+ weeks.
Do it right, and you can have material that will improve your soil tilth, and even provide some (unknown) amount of nutrition for your plants.
Read how I learned to make “the best compost in the world” by using the materials from the zoo animals at Utah’s Hogle Zoo. I did it for 2 years, and even sold the compost as “Zoo-Doo” quite successfully. I tell about it in the article titled “The Zoo-Doo Man”, which can be found in the FAQ section of the Foundation’s website, or in the Files section of the MittleiderMethodGardening@yahoogroups.com.
On the other hand, consider saving yourself the time and effort of composting altogether, and accurately feed your plants a balanced diet of natural mineral nutrients, as contained in the Mittleider Pre-Plant and Weekly Feed mixes. Learn about them in the Learn section of the website at www.growfood.com. You can mix them yourself from materials purchased at your nursery or farm supply store, or if you live in the Mountain West you can buy them pre-mixed from farm supply stores.
The Pre-Plant Mix is simple. Just combine calcium from either lime or gypsum (lime if you receive more than 20” of annual rainfall) with magnesium and boron (20 mule team borax) in a ratio of 80-4-1. Apply and mix with the soil before planting at the rate of 1 ounce per running foot of 18”-wide soil-bed.
You can also mix your own Weekly Feed Mix quite easily by getting the Micro-Nutrients from the Foundation website www.foodforeveryone.org – look under Materials – and then mixing each small packet of Micro’s with 25# of 16-16-16 (or similar) and 4# of magnesium (Epsom Salt works). The Weekly Feed is applied ½ ounce per running foot of soil-bed and mixing with the soil before planting, and after the plants have emerged apply that same amount each week down the center of the soil-bed – until 3 weeks before plant maturity for single-crop varieties, and until 8 weeks before frost for ever-bearing crops.
By Jim Kennard
Jim Kennard is the President of Food For Everyone Foundation (501)(c)(3) Charitable Foundation. Mission – “Teach the world to grow food one family at a time” with the world-renowned Mittleider Method.
Popular Questions
What are the best practices for composting at home?
To successfully compost at home, focus on maintaining a proper carbon-to-nitrogen ratio, ideally around 30:1. Use a mix of high-carbon materials like dry leaves and straw with nitrogen-rich greens such as fresh grass clippings. Ensure the compost pile is kept moist, similar to a wrung-out sponge, and turn it regularly to provide adequate air circulation. Monitoring temperature is crucial; aim for 140 degrees Fahrenheit to effectively kill pathogens and weed seeds.
How can I avoid common composting mistakes in my home garden?
Many home gardeners struggle with anaerobic composting, which leads to foul odors and pests. To prevent this, ensure your compost pile has enough air by turning it frequently and incorporating fibrous materials. Additionally, avoid overloading your pile with nitrogen-rich ingredients, as this can create an ammonia smell. Regularly check moisture levels to keep the pile from becoming too wet or too dry.
Is it better to compost or to incorporate organic waste directly into the soil?
Incorporating organic waste directly into the soil can be a more efficient method than traditional composting for many gardeners. This approach eliminates the need for composting equipment and reduces the risk of attracting pests. By mixing grass clippings and clean plant parts into the soil, you allow them to decompose naturally, enriching the soil without the hassle of maintaining a compost pile. This method also minimizes odors and mess associated with composting.
What materials should I avoid when composting at home?
Avoid using meat, dairy, and oils in your compost pile, as these can attract pests and create unpleasant odors. Additionally, steer clear of diseased plants and weeds that may introduce pathogens into your compost. Be cautious with manure; only use herbivore manure and ensure it is well-composted to reduce health risks. Lastly, avoid using glossy or colored paper, as these may contain harmful chemicals.
