by PREPARE | Apr 5, 2025 | Blog, Guest Bloggers
Preparedness Medicine, Part I: Local Volunteers
In the preparedness domain, no subject has any more importance than caring for and optimizing the human body. Aside from a warm and safe place to stay, nothing will be more important than the recovery and maintenance of health in any kind of difficult time. In this article, in this series and in pretty much anything this author writes, there is an emphasis on natural health now and in any sort of pinch. No one has spent any more emphasis on this subject. Further, it is through healing ourselves naturally that our own psychological sovereignty is preserved. In this article we shall specifically introduce the idea of local volunteers and tell a little about a few of them to introduce the power of this preparedness strategy.
Local volunteers are plants that grow freely, sometimes in spite of us, which are also quite useful as food and medicine. While every area has many of these plants unique to that area, there is quite a list of plants like this that either grow almost everywhere around the globe or that can be grown with ease almost anywhere.
The first plant that is on our list today is plantain. This should not be confused with plantain bananas, but rather is any one of over 100 Plantago species growing around the world. One can easily find pictures of the many species on the internet and can probably walk through disturbed areas, lawns or parks and find plantain to identify it. It is best to gather it somewhere that is not saturated with chemicals, pesticides and fertilizers.
Medicinally, this plant has a drawing effect when applied as a fresh leaf (or ointment or tincture made from the fresh leaf) to a bite, sting or puncture wound. Recently one of the author’s clients made up the tincture for a friend who was having terrible reactions to mosquito bites. She followed instructions and used Everclear with the fresh leaf. She put the liquid in a spray bottle and had her friend spray on and cover all exposed skin whenever she went out. As usual, she got many bites, but none of them ever appeared afterward! None showed up as an itch or bump or anything. The beauty of plantain leaf is its power to draw out venom, infection and contamination while simultaneously calming and improving immune/inflammatory response. The implications of this should be clear that virtually every bite can be rendered harmless this way. More than one case exists in literature where plantain leaf was used for severe immune reactions to bee stings and the topical application over the sting pulled out the poison and saved the person.
When ingested as tea it is quite nourishing and is also diuretic and drying to the body. It strengthens the kidneys, spleen and immune system in relatively small doses (1/2 cup of the tea 2 x daily or two leaves eaten as often). It is dense with nutrition and has been used also for weak or lost blood. The drying, astringent property makes it one of our best herbs for injuries and burns where there might be infection. Plantain is also quite cell proliferant. This property speeds healing of any kind, anywhere.
Long-term infection, or people prone to such, may benefit from plantain leaf tea when consumed regularly. It dries out the congested lymph and phlegm. It thereby creates conditions in the body where infection is not welcome. This effect, as well as the tonifying effect on the kidneys, makes plantain leaf a wonderful aid for the diabetic.
Ultimately, the seeds of plantain have long been used for calming and bulking the bowel for better elimination. Probably the name most known is “psyllium” which is a species of plantain. The seeds of any plantain can be used, but it is quickly noted that the small seeds of most species make this less fun to gather than buying the psyllium.
The next herb on our list is chickweed. This herb moistens instead of dries, but both plantain and chickweed are cooling and calming to the tissues they reach. Chickweed is useful as a food since it is delicate and sweet. Like many wild foods, chickweed is quite nutrient dense, especially in minerals and carbohydrates. The medicinal use for which chickweed is most famous is for various dermatoses, such as dermatitis, psoriasis and eczema. The tea is drunk internally and also applied topically to the affected area. It cools the affected area and is thought to cause the liver to cool and push its heat out through bile instead of out through the skin. It certainly works very well and is especially useful for small children and infants.
To wrap up, chickweed got immortalized by Dr. John R. Christopher as an aid for obesity. He apparently understood what has escaped most modern natural healers: obesity has nothing to do with metabolic rate and everything to do with inflammation and irritation in the gut. While chickweed probably calms and slows metabolism, it has a gradual, steady healing effect on obesity via healing the inflamed gut. The thyroid and adrenal glands have a chance to return to normal when the systemic inflammation (coming from antibody-antigen complexes that escape the gut) is reduced. Of course, an exclusively whole, mostly raw food diet is recommended in any case of need to heal.
Other herbs on the list that are easily found around the globe will have to be put in a list in the interest of space for this article. These are: nettle, various mallow species, lamb‘s quarter, roots of any grass, various wild mustard species, various pigweed species, pines and spruces, purselane, raspberry leaves, mullein, poplar buds, oak bark and comfrey. In later articles, various herbs of these will be discussed in self-healing. This list is a good intro to herbs that either grow wild just about everywhere or could be grown in any garden, yard or planter box quite easily.
In this article, we introduced in some detail two very common herbs: chickweed and plantain. We discussed how they are useful in medicine in a pinch and why we might want to know what they look like. We also gave a list of herbs that commonly grow wild in any area or could be easily grown in almost any situation, anywhere in the world. In coming articles in this series, we will discuss wide uses of herbs for the preparedness enthusiast.
By Dr. Kal Sellers
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Dr. Kal Sellers has been researching natural options for healing literally since childhood. He grew up practicing reflexology, CRA, applied trophology, herbal medicine and massage. Today he is a Doctor of Chiropractic, a Master Herbalist and has taught herbal medicine and natural healing in Europe, Asia, South America and all over the U.S. He maintains an on-line presence for teaching herbal medicine excellence to the novice and clinical practitioner alike. He also has a passion for off-grid living and independence from central resources. He lives in the mountains of Wyoming with his wife, 6 daughters and 1 son. http://www.rawherbalist.com
by PREPARE | Apr 5, 2025 | Blog, Guest Bloggers
“One of the things I’d like to do is to show people how to start “positive” epidemics of their own.
The virtue of an epidemic, after all, is that just a little input is enough to get it started, and
it can spread very, very quickly.” ~ Malcolm Gladwell, The Tipping Point
Growing a Sustainable Garden – The “Vital Few” or the “Trivial Many”? Which are you: one of the “Vital Few” or the “Trivial Many”?
I submit that your knowledge of the Mittleider Method of sustainable gardening makes you one of the “vital few.” With that knowledge, comes both opportunity and responsibility.
In his book, The Tipping Point, Malcolm Gladwell describes how the few can make a tremendous positive difference for everyone else, which he compares to an epidemic, or that point before which not much seems to be happening, and after which effects begin to explode.
We Need to Start An Epidemic … And You Can Help!
Family gardening can, and should, become as common and important again as the family car.
Why?
Because your garden can FEED you — even when:
• Your car won’t run because there’s no gasoline (or you can’t afford to buy it) …
• There’s no food to buy in the stores … or
• There’s no money (or not enough) to buy food – for whatever reason.
This is the context, or the overriding reason why the message YOU carry is so vital for everyone.
Gardening should be sustainable, using true, proven principles and the best methods and techniques, so it will yield the “most bang for the buck,” and be worthwhile and enjoyable for the long term.
The Mittleider Method will feed your family! It will give you “the garden you’d want if your life depended on it.” And it very well may.
Today truly effective family vegetable gardening is done by only about 1% of the people who may soon desperately need it.
The best growing principles, methods and procedures are the closely guarded secrets of the large field and hydroponic growers. Meanwhile, the large majority of gardening families are back in the 19th century mentality, using only manure and compost, scared into believing that ANY use of “chemicals” will threaten their health, or even their lives.
What makes the Mittleider Method so unique – and so vitally important – is that it teaches the best principles, procedures, and techniques used by large commercial and hydroponic growers, but adapted to the small family garden. It works in any soil, and in almost any climate. The procedures are easy to learn; simple and straightforward.
In addition, the Mittleider Method eliminates the problems so often associated with large-scale commercial food production, such as overuse of fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides, high cost, and lack of freshness and flavor.
Now here’s our opportunity … and my challenge to you!
Great changes have always been initiated by just a few people who knew what they wanted, were focused, and were willing to share their knowledge with everyone they could influence.
I challenge every person reading this article to be among the “vital few” who help people around you improve their lives while preparing for the uncertainties of the future.
How?
First, by learning how to grow your own food using the best system available as demonstrated and taught by The Food For Everyone Foundation, and then by promoting, teaching, and demonstrating what you’ve learned about sustainable gardening, and getting others to do the same.
Choose a group of people with whom you have a genuine, social relationship. Your church group, email list, gardening club, voting district, family, or neighborhood association are all good places to start.
Show them your own garden. Tell them of your own success. Loan them a book or CD. Offer to teach a seminar. Point out the benefits of learning and doing it NOW, before their need is urgent and it’s too late to learn or prepare.
Show and Tell!
Share articles, tips and advice from the Food for Everyone Foundation Website. Share important posts from the archives of the MittleiderGardeningMethod@yahoo.groups.com and encourage people to subscribe. And invite friends to add Mittleider Gardening to their Friends on Facebook.
Even if you do nothing more than persuade them to buy a can of vegetable seeds and a couple bags of fertilizer, you’ve done tremendous good. A triple-sealed #10 can of 22 heirloom vegetable varieties that can be stored for many years can be purchased at the Foundation website or at www.mvseeds.com.
Do something NOW! Make your voice heard, and your influence felt. You CAN make a difference for good in the world around you.
It’s time to spread an epidemic … (Not bird flu. The gardening “bug!”)
We can do it. Malcolm Gladwell says we can do it. And remember: “out of small things proceedeth that which is great.”
Thanks for your interest in gardening, your willingness to do it right, and your courage to share.
By Jim Kenard
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Jim Kennard is the President of Food For Everyone Foundation (501)(c)(3) Charitable Foundation. Mission – “Teach the world to grow food one family at a time” with the world-renowned Mittleider Method.
by PREPARE | Apr 5, 2025 | Blog, Guest Bloggers
This is the perfect time of year to share information on Composting For the Home Gardener
Let me begin by saying that, I do not generally recommend composting because of the equipment, time, space, and effort required, and because few people have the time, knowledge, or inclination to really do it right. In addition, even the best compost is a great unknown, so far as what actual nutrition it provides. And no one can tell you either, because every batch is different!
Rather than composting, I recommend putting grass clippings, clean and disease-free plant parts, etc. into the ground immediately, so that mixed with the soil they can compost naturally and there will be no flies, rodents, smells, etc. To read about my experience in composting, see the Zoo-Doo Man article, which I will discuss later in this article. And to feed your plants exactly what they need without the investment, time, and hassle of composting pay attention to the final 3 paragraphs of the article for what WE do!
If you still want to compost, we will now describe what it takes to compost correctly.
There are two types of composting: aerobic (with oxygen) and anaerobic (without oxygen). Compost includes 4 basic elements including air, water, carbon, and nitrogen.
For Aerobic composting, a carbon-to-nitrogen ratio close to 30 is ideal. Moisture content is generally best between 50 and 60%. The material must not become soggy or compacted, but must be moist. A thermometer measuring 100 to 200 degrees, with a long probe, is essential.
Anaerobic composting is a cold process; it can take as long as two years to produce usable compost, and DOES NOT remove soil pathogens, bugs, and weed seeds. This method is NOT recommended for the family garden for the reasons stated above, plus the fact that it creates an unsightly, smelly mess in your yard that attracts rodents, etc. and often occupies usable space that could otherwise be growing plants.
Regrettably, anaerobic composting is what 99% of family gardeners usually end up with, because of lack of education and/or consistent effort.
Aerobic composting must sustain temperatures of at least 140 degrees Fahrenheit (150 is better) for three weeks, which kills most soil pathogens, bugs, and weed seeds. It requires a constant supply of air throughout the pile in order to provide oxygen to the microbes that digest the raw materials and thus decompose them into usable compost.
Foul odors are from anaerobic activity and indicate a lack of oxygen. Increase turning frequency and/or fibrous content of the mix to reduce the moisture content and increase oxygen.
The pile should be thoroughly turned daily, and if all other elements are present in the right proportions good compost can be created in as little as one month.
Water, as mentioned above, is also necessary, but not too much at one time. The pile should be moist – like a wrung-out sponge – but not wet.
Carbon is used as the energy source, and most of the pile should consist of material high in carbon. Common high-carbon ingredients include dry leaves, straw, and corn stalks. High-carbon ingredients will contain more than 30 times as much carbon as nitrogen – sometimes MUCH more – and are often called “browns”.
Nitrogen is needed for the proteins that build the microbes bodies. Ingredients with the most nitrogen are usually green, moist plant matter such as leaves, or an animal by-product like manure. Nitrogen-rich materials – often called “greens” – usually will contain carbon and nitrogen in a ratio close to 20:1.
NEVER use manure from carnivores, and even cow manure sometimes contains e-coli, which can cause sickness and even death. Therefore, any manure should be used with caution.
For efficient decomposition you need a carbon/nitrogen (C/N) ratio of no more than 30:1. If you have too much nitrogen your pile will smell because the excess nitrogen converts into an ammonia gas. If there’s too little nitrogen you will not sustain the necessary heat, plus the pile will break down very slowly.
Green, fresh materials have a much higher nitrogen content than dry materials. Fresh grass clippings are ideal for composting, having a carbon to nitrogen (C/N) ratio of 19:1. Food scraps vary, but can be as low as 15:1. So, mixing grass clippings and old leaves, in the ratio of one part clippings and two parts old leaves, will generally give you a good C/N ratio.
Experiment with the materials that are available to you, and remember that success can be fleeting – with constant adjustments being necessary to maintain the ideal conditions. If temperatures are below the target range and the mix is loose and friable, add high-nitrogen materials and/or water until the temperature rises. Remember, too dry is as bad as too wet.
Some additional common materials with their carbon/nitrogen ratios, which I have copied from an article in the Urban Garden Center source are:
Leaves – 35:1 – – 85:1, Peat moss – 58:1, Corn stalks – 60:1, Straw – 80:1, Pine needles 60:1 – – 110:1, Farm manure – 90:1, Sawdust – 130:1 – – 490:1, Newspaper – 170:1.
Unless it’s contained in a Compost Tumbler or other container in which it can be turned easily while retaining the heat, you should start with a compost pile of at least 1 cubic yard, in order to have sufficient material to retain the necessary 140 degree heat for 3+ weeks.
Do it right, and you can have material that will improve your soil tilth, and even provide some (unknown) amount of nutrition for your plants.
Read how I learned to make “the best compost in the world” by using the materials from the zoo animals at Utah’s Hogle Zoo. I did it for 2 years, and even sold the compost as “Zoo-Doo” quite successfully. I tell about it in the article titled “The Zoo-Doo Man”, which can be found in the FAQ section of the Foundation’s website, or in the Files section of the MittleiderMethodGardening@yahoogroups.com.
On the other hand, consider saving yourself the time and effort of composting altogether, and accurately feed your plants a balanced diet of natural mineral nutrients, as contained in the Mittleider Pre-Plant and Weekly Feed mixes. Learn about them in the Learn section of the website at www.growfood.com. You can mix them yourself from materials purchased at your nursery or farm supply store, or if you live in the Mountain West you can buy them pre-mixed from farm supply stores.
The Pre-Plant Mix is simple. Just combine calcium from either lime or gypsum (lime if you receive more than 20” of annual rainfall) with magnesium and boron (20 mule team borax) in a ratio of 80-4-1. Apply and mix with the soil before planting at the rate of 1 ounce per running foot of 18”-wide soil-bed.
You can also mix your own Weekly Feed Mix quite easily by getting the Micro-Nutrients from the Foundation website www.foodforeveryone.org – look under Materials – and then mixing each small packet of Micro’s with 25# of 16-16-16 (or similar) and 4# of magnesium (Epsom Salt works). The Weekly Feed is applied ½ ounce per running foot of soil-bed and mixing with the soil before planting, and after the plants have emerged apply that same amount each week down the center of the soil-bed – until 3 weeks before plant maturity for single-crop varieties, and until 8 weeks before frost for ever-bearing crops.
By Jim Kennard
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Jim Kennard is the President of Food For Everyone Foundation (501)(c)(3) Charitable Foundation. Mission – “Teach the world to grow food one family at a time” with the world-renowned Mittleider Method.
by PREPARE | Apr 5, 2025 | Blog, Guest Bloggers
The Sacred Giant Bear and the Mosquitoes
An Apache tribe had the last of the great giant bears living near their summer camp. The giant bear lived in the cliffs near their village. The Apaches all had a high level of respect for this sacred giant bear. They would give it plenty of privacy and would thank The Creator for blessing their tribe with the giant bear’s spirit. One day a rebellious Apache boy was out hunting and spotted a rabbit in the berry bushes. He pulled his arrow back and aimed, but at that moment, the rabbit ran away. The rabbit was running because the sacred giant bear came by to eat the berries. The boy decided to just shoot one arrow at the great bear, and thought it would just bounce off its thick fur. Just as the boy released the arrow, the giant bear stood up to face the boy and the arrow went straight into the bear’s heart. The giant bear slumped to the ground and died. Great fear came over the boy and he dropped his bow and ran back to the village.
The next day, the other Apache hunters came to the same location and saw the sacred giant bear motionless. They spotted the bow nearby and knew the owner was the rebellious boy. For respect, the warriors prayed for forgiveness and left the bear where it laid. The boy was whipped by the village for his crime and selfish ways. The boy was never allowed in the warrior class society the rest of his days.
The next season when summer came the Apaches were out hunting again and they came across the location where the giant bear had died. They saw his black silhouette, but as they drew near, the silhouette was merely a swarm of millions of mosquitoes in the shape of the great bear. Next the swarm of mosquitoes flew towards the Apaches. As the Apache ran back to the village, the mosquitoes followed and continued to bite into the Apaches’ skin. The Apaches knew it was the curse of the sacred bear. The sacred bear had turned into mosquitoes. The mosquitoes sucked the blood from the Apaches to take back the blood they took from the sacred bear. The Apaches accepted this fate, and to this day, some Apaches do not smack mosquitoes when they attack.
The battle application attributed to this story is called the Mosquitoes tactic. The Apache warriors would take a knife or other weapons and strike quickly at the opponent, when the opponent would attempt to defend, the Apache warrior would draw back and quickly strike at another location on the opponent. This action emulates the mosquitoes; for as you try to swat mosquitoes, they simply fly away and attack you on a different part of the body. Mosquitoes leave multiple bite marks, as do the Apache warrior.
By Snake Blocker, Lipan Apache Tribe of Texas
Snake Blocker is a member of the Lipan Apache Tribe of Texas, is an accomplished martial artists and Apache Historian. He has served in the U.S. Navy since June 2001 and did tours in Kuwait, Iraq and Afghanistan. He is the featured instructor in several videos and promotes his signature line of survival products and knives. Snake has been featured on Deadliest Warrior “Apaches versus Gladiators” and Doomsday Preppers “In the Hurt Locker”. He hosts “Snake Blocker Survival” on Preparedness Radio Network.
by PREPARE | Apr 5, 2025 | Blog, Guest Bloggers
In a preparedness lifestyle, preparing beyond your storage food is essential.
With today’s economy and food borne illnesses a very real possibility, many people are wisely turning to backyard gardening to help with their food supply. For some families it has become a necessity, while for others it is basically a productive hobby. From an economics standpoint, not to mention health perspective, raising your own vegetables just makes excellent sense even at a very small level.
Of course, everyone has a different level of understanding and experience when it comes to growing food. Some people give-up any thoughts of planting crops because they immediately picture a task that is overwhelming and beyond their resources.
The truth is, you do not need acres of land or tons of garden soil to get started. In fact, if planned properly the time and effort required to grow vegetables to feed your family is fairly minimal. For people who are making preparations for potential difficulties ahead, the benefit is certainly worthy of the time investment.
Another key point that needs to be emphasized is the nutritional consumption element. Ready meals that are typically used as emergency food storage, typically do not have the nutritional value that our bodies need to function properly. They are okay for a short-term food supply, but are probably not the best solution for lengthy consumption. Many of the “ready meals” are high in salt and other preservatives that help with the storage, but give no benefit to our bodies health. In reality, our bodies are not getting the live nutrients that we need to stay healthy. Growing live vegetables will help give us nutrients that are required for us to function at peak performance.
With that said, let’s discuss some growing solutions to supplement your food supply!
It is that time of year again, seedlings are being displayed and pallets of potting mix are everywhere you turn when visiting your local home and garden store. So how do you get started? What vegetables grow best and where, and what skills do you need? Virtually any type of vegetable can be grown anywhere and if you can handle a trowel, you have the skills needed. Let nature do all the heavy lifting.
Below is a list of vegetables that can be grown on a patio, in a backward planter, a cultivated section of the backyard, or even grown in random pots.
- Tomatoes Can Be Grown In Pots Or Sow Directly In Well Cultivated Soil
- Bell Peppers
- Herbs Such As Parsley Chives Dill Tarragon And many Others In Planter Boxes Pots Or Sown Directly Into The Garden Plot
- Hot Peppers Of All Types To Include Jalapenos And Cayenne
The list is by no means comprehensive. Use your imagination and you can grow anything practically anywhere. What do you need to get started? First, you need a sunny location. Vegetables, unlike certain flowers thrive in full sunlight; in fact, they need at least six to eight hours of direct sun daily.
Tomato plants in particular suffer low yields and the plants become “leggy” if they do not get enough sun. What happens is the plant in its effort to reach sunlight will grow long stems void of foliage. The plant will grow tall but will have a very limited yield. The plants are weaker and will be more susceptible to pests and disease. Tomatoes need at least six hours of sunlight daily. The plants also need up to two inches of water weekly.
Tomato plants are self-pollinating (do not need bees for pollination) so they are very popular for patios and even sun-rooms. The plant produces both the male and female blossoms. If the plants are grown in an enclosed area, you will need to shake the plants gently once the plant shows blossoms. Shaking allows the pollen to fall from one blossom to another. If planted outside nature handles this by providing a breeze from time to time. Cucumbers squash, and various other plants will need active bees to ensure pollination.
Tomatoes and cucumbers need warm soil and balmy nights. It is not advisable to transplant until the average nighttime temperature is above 50 degrees Fahrenheit or 10 degrees Celsius. Tomato plants if started indoors will need to be slowly introduced to the outdoors. Place the plants outdoors for a few hours daily, until ready to plant in the ground. This hardens the plants by exposing them to varying temperatures and breezes. The tomato plant senses the change. Soon it will begin to grow thicker stems to store and transport water and to support the plant. Plants that are not hardened have less of a chance of surviving.
When transplanting, bury as much of the plant as you can. Some experts say 80 percent of the plant should be buried. This ensures strong stems and heavy foliage. To produce larger tomatoes, some gardeners prune their plants. This allows the plant to direct more nutrients and water into each fruit. This reduces the yield but produces larger tomatoes.
To grow organically you should have a compost pile. Compost is simply the decomposition process of organic material. Household scraps such as overripe fruit, potato peels and so forth. However, do not compost animal waste, bones or meat. You can compost grass clippings, yard waste and so on.
The compost is a fertilizer. Mix it with top soil, peat moss or potting soil. You can also mulch with it around the base of the plants to inhibit weed growth and to retain moisture. Herbs such as dill, garlic and even green onions act as a natural pest repellent. You can plant these herbs in any garden area to ward off plant eating pests.
Do not let any vegetables languish on the vine so to speak. Tomatoes can be picked early and they will ripen after picking. Pick cucumbers before they become too large, because they will produce more seeds and become tough when allowed to get to big. Moreover, harvesting regularly will increase the overall yield.
By: Pierce Jacobson
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Pierce Jacobson is a family man who enjoys homesteading, writing, and researching food growing models. He has been studying self-reliance and preparedness systems for many years, and believes that we are heading toward difficulties that will require us to be less-dependent on the existing infrastructures. He practices and teaches his own survival skills and growing models, to help better-prepare for the days ahead.
